Pear Cut Diamond Size Chart
Interactive Guide to Pear Diamond Carat Sizes
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sample image
| Shape: | Pear |
| Also known as: | Pendeloque or Teardrop cut |
| Cutting style: | Modified brilliant |
| Facets: | usually 58 |
| L/W ratio: | 1.45 - 1.75 |
Quick Intro: The Pear cut is a variation of the Round cut, featuring a softly rounded end that tapers to a delicate point. Its elongated silhouette beautifully enhances the look of the hand, making the finger appear longer and more slender. This elegant shape is also perfect for pendants and earrings. Graceful and effortlessly feminine.
Pear Diamond Size Chart (Carat to mm)
The following is a chart of actual Pear cut diamond sizes (from 0.25 to 10 carats) with their corresponding face-up dimensions (length x width) in millimeters. This will give you an approximate idea of how big a stone of a certain weight looks or should look. The typical length-to-width ratio for Pears is 1.45-1.75, however, there is no ideal ratio - it all comes down to personal preference. On the chart below the ratio is 1.66. The chart is interactive, meaning you can click on any stone to view it on a ring and finger in the diamond size simulator.
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Length-to-width ratio: 1.66
Size Comparison With Other Shapes
Pear-cut diamonds typically appear larger than most other shapes of the same carat weight when viewed from above. Their elongated silhouette and tapered point distribute the weight across a greater surface area, which enhances their face-up size. In terms of visual spread, they are comparable to Ovals, Marquises, and Trillions, as all four are elongated and maximize surface appearance.
Here is a quick side-by-side comparison of the Pear diamond with Round, Oval, Marquise, and Trillion at one, two and three carats:
If you'd like to see more comparisons like the one above, go to the Diamond Size Chart tool. There you can create custom size charts for any shape and carat weight, you can save them, share them, or print them.
Here is a quick side-by-side comparison of the Pear diamond with Round, Oval, Marquise, and Trillion at one, two and three carats:
Buying Guide For Pear Cut Diamonds
Pear-cut diamonds do not have standardized cut quality grades like Rounds, which makes them a bit more difficult to evaluate. It's important to stay within the recommended parameter ranges defined below and assess each stone individually - either in person or via high-quality images and/or videos, if you're buying online. Watch out for the prominent bow-tie effect and pay attention to the symmetry - make sure that the point is perfectly aligned with the center of the rounded end.
Here are the guidelines on what to look for and what to avoid when buying a Pear-cut diamond:
Here are the guidelines on what to look for and what to avoid when buying a Pear-cut diamond:
Look for:
- Color: H or higher [depends on a setting]
- Clarity: SI or better [explain]
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Cut parameters:
- Depth: 59% - 65%
- Table: 50% - 65%
- Polish/Symmetry: Good or better
- Length-to-width ratio: 1.45 - 1.75
- Diamonds certified by GIA or AGS [explain]
- Eye-clean
Did You Know?
- The pear shape, or "teardrop", was one of the earliest brilliant-style diamond cuts and dates back to the mid-15th century. It was created by a renowned Flemish jeweler and diamond cutter, Lodewyk van Bercken.
Where To Buy Pear Diamonds?
It's simple: for best value, shop online. Online vendors almost always have better prices than traditional stores. They also have huge selections and with today's technology you can now easily inspect any diamond up-close in 360-degree view. It's easy and safe to buy online. Here are the most recommended online retailers:
Blue Nile → vast selection, competitive prices
Whiteflash → big inventory of Super Ideal cuts
Compare Pear with another diamond
Popular comparisons:
- 1ct Pear (9.05x5.45x3.32) vs. 1.5ct Pear (10.36x6.24x3.81)
- 2ct Pear (11.4x6.87x4.19) vs. 2ct Round (8.19x8.19x4.94)
- 1ct Pear (9.05x5.45x3.32) vs. 2ct Pear (11.4x6.87x4.19)
- 1ct Pear (9.05x5.45x3.32) vs. 1ct Princess (5.51x5.51x3.97)
- 2ct Pear (11.4x6.87x4.19) vs. 1.5ct Pear (10.36x6.24x3.81)
- 2ct Pear (11.4x6.87x4.19) vs. 3ct Pear (13.05x7.86x4.79)
- 2ct Pear (11.4x6.87x4.19) vs. 2ct Oval (10.23x6.82x4.16)
- 1ct Pear (9.05x5.45x3.32) vs. 1ct Marquise (10.38x5.19x3.17)
- 2.5ct Pear (12.28x7.4x4.51) vs. 3ct Pear (13.05x7.86x4.79)
Color Recommendation For Pear Diamonds
Pear cuts can show color more than other cuts, so in order to avoid off-white appearance, choose a high enough color grade. The choice of color also depends on a setting:
| Solitaire | Small side-stones | Substantial side-stones | |
| White gold/Platinum | H+ | G+ | same as side-stones+ |
| Yellow gold | J+ | I+ | same as side-stones+ |
| e.g. pave setting | e.g. three-stone setting |
Note: If side-stones are of any
significant size (like in three-stone settings), you should at least match the color of
the center stone with the color of the side stones,
otherwise the center stone might look out of place (a bit "off-white").
For best value, go with the minimum recommended color for a particular type of setting.
Color variations between H graded and higher colored
Pear cuts are so slight that it's almost impossible to
tell the difference, especially when diamonds are mounted.
The difference in price, however, can be quite considerable.
Clarity Recommendation For Pear Diamonds
Pear cuts are great at hiding inclusions, so you can go relaively low on the clarity scale, just make sure the diamond is eye-clean. The recommended clarity for Pear cuts is SI1 or SI2.
Note: You can always go lower in clarity, but it's going to get increasingly difficult to find an eye-clean Pear below the minimum recommended SI2 grade.
For best value, go with the lowest clarity possible that is still eye-clean. If a diamond is eye-clean, then it doesn't really matter, if it's flawless or SI2. It will look the same, provided all other characteristics are the same.
Note: You can always go lower in clarity, but it's going to get increasingly difficult to find an eye-clean Pear below the minimum recommended SI2 grade.
For best value, go with the lowest clarity possible that is still eye-clean. If a diamond is eye-clean, then it doesn't really matter, if it's flawless or SI2. It will look the same, provided all other characteristics are the same.
About Diamond Clarity
Diamond clarity refers to the presence and visual appearance of the flaws inside a diamond (called inclusions)
or on its surface (called blemishes). Clarity tells you to what degree these imperfections are present.
The amount of inclusions and blemishes is directly correlated to a diamond's value. Fewer imperfections mean higher price and vice versa.
Gemological laboratories grade diamond clarity as Flawless (FL), Internally Flawless (IF), Very Very Slightly Included (VVS1,VVS2), Very Slightly Included (VS1,VS2), Slightly Included (SI1,SI2), and Included (I1,I2,I3).
The amount of inclusions and blemishes is directly correlated to a diamond's value. Fewer imperfections mean higher price and vice versa.
Gemological laboratories grade diamond clarity as Flawless (FL), Internally Flawless (IF), Very Very Slightly Included (VVS1,VVS2), Very Slightly Included (VS1,VS2), Slightly Included (SI1,SI2), and Included (I1,I2,I3).
GIA and AGS Certified Diamonds
Professional and unbiased assessment of a diamond's characteristics is stated on a diamond grading report,
commonly referred to as a certificate. Certificate, while not 100% reliable, is
essential in determining a diamond's value.
The standard for diamond grading is pretty much set by GIA - Gemological Institute of America. They are the most reputable and consistent lab in the industry. AGS (American Gemological Society) is not far behind.
If a diamond is not certified by GIA or AGS, you can be pretty much certain that you are looking at lesser quality than indicated. This puts you in a bad position of not knowing the true diamond characteristics, which almost always results in overpaying. That is why a certificate from a well-respected grading lab is so important.
The standard for diamond grading is pretty much set by GIA - Gemological Institute of America. They are the most reputable and consistent lab in the industry. AGS (American Gemological Society) is not far behind.
If a diamond is not certified by GIA or AGS, you can be pretty much certain that you are looking at lesser quality than indicated. This puts you in a bad position of not knowing the true diamond characteristics, which almost always results in overpaying. That is why a certificate from a well-respected grading lab is so important.
The bottom line: Make sure to always buy a diamond certified by either GIA or AGS.
That's the only way of truly getting the quality you expect.
Diamonds with Blue Fluorescence
Blue fluorescence can have a positive, negative, or zero effect on a diamond. Diamonds in the
lower color range (H or lower) can benefit from it, as it can make them look whiter, more colorless.
On the other hand, strong fluorescence can cause a stone (especially in the higher color range D-G) to
appear hazy or milky under certain light conditions. One of the biggest benefits of
fluorescent diamonds is that they generally cost less.
GIA grades fluorescence as None, Faint, Medium, Strong, and Very Strong.
Faint fluorescence will have zero effect on color and overall appearance. Fluorescence of this type is not an issue and shouldn't be a purchasing factor.
Medium fluorescence will in most cases have zero to very small influence on color and overall appearance, however, colorless diamonds can sometimes exhibit negative effects and should be examined in different light conditions before purchasing.
Strong/Very Strong fluorescence requires caution. Generally, it's not a good idea to buy a colorless diamond with Strong/Very Strong fluorescence. As for lower color diamonds, even they can sometimes look hazy with strong fluorescence, so never buy a stone with this type of fluorescence without careful visual inspection.
GIA grades fluorescence as None, Faint, Medium, Strong, and Very Strong.
Faint fluorescence will have zero effect on color and overall appearance. Fluorescence of this type is not an issue and shouldn't be a purchasing factor.
Medium fluorescence will in most cases have zero to very small influence on color and overall appearance, however, colorless diamonds can sometimes exhibit negative effects and should be examined in different light conditions before purchasing.
Strong/Very Strong fluorescence requires caution. Generally, it's not a good idea to buy a colorless diamond with Strong/Very Strong fluorescence. As for lower color diamonds, even they can sometimes look hazy with strong fluorescence, so never buy a stone with this type of fluorescence without careful visual inspection.
Diamonds Without GIA or AGS Certificates
The problem with diamond grading labs other than GIA or AGS is that they are looser
and more inconsistent in their grading standards.
A GIA color H is an IGI color G and an EGL/HRD color F. The same goes for clarity.
While it's true that IGI, EGL, and HRD diamonds are sold at a discount, you can be certain that the same stones would cost less, if they would be certified by GIA or AGS. Why? Because they would get lower grades and thus lower price. Lower than discounted IGI, EGL, and HRD stones with higher grades.
Diamond merchants use IGI, EGL, HRD, and alike to maximize their profits. They know they can sell diamonds with inflated grades for more, even if they're sold at a substantial discounts. Some merchants also use their in-house certification, usually for the sole purpose of increasing their profits. These kinds of certificates are meaningless.
While it's true that IGI, EGL, and HRD diamonds are sold at a discount, you can be certain that the same stones would cost less, if they would be certified by GIA or AGS. Why? Because they would get lower grades and thus lower price. Lower than discounted IGI, EGL, and HRD stones with higher grades.
Diamond merchants use IGI, EGL, HRD, and alike to maximize their profits. They know they can sell diamonds with inflated grades for more, even if they're sold at a substantial discounts. Some merchants also use their in-house certification, usually for the sole purpose of increasing their profits. These kinds of certificates are meaningless.
The bottom line: If you don't want to overpay and want to know exactly what kind of quality you're
getting, then avoid diamonds without GIA or AGS certification.
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