Princess Cut

Square Modified Brilliant

Princess cut diamond - sample image
sample image
Shape: Princess
Also known as: Square Modified Brilliant
Cutting style: Modified brilliant
Facets: usually between 50 - 58
L/W ratio: 1.00 - 1.05

Quick Intro

Princess cut is a contemporary classic with excellent sparkle and brilliance. The most popular of fancy shapes and second most popular for engagement rings, surpassed only by Round Brilliants. It's a modern cut (created in 1960s, perfected in the 80s) and a great alternative to the traditional Round cut. Perfect for those who want square outline with maximum brilliance.

Princess Cut Diamond Size Chart (carat to mm)

The following is a chart of actual diamond sizes (from 0.25 to 10 carats) with their corresponding face-up dimensions in millimeters (length×width). Princess diamonds are traditionally square cut with length-to-width ratio of around 1, however, they can also be cut into slightly rectangular shapes. A length-to-width ratio of 1.05 or less will appear square. The chart below will give you an approximate idea of how big a Princess (square cut) of a certain weight looks or should look. The table is interactive, meaning you can click on any stone to view it in a diamond ring simulator.

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0.25 carat Princess
3.47×3.47 mm
0.5 carat Princess
4.37×4.37 mm
0.75 carat Princess
5.01×5.01 mm
1 carat Princess
5.51×5.51 mm
1.25 carat Princess
5.94×5.94 mm
1.5 carat Princess
6.31×6.31 mm
1.75 carat Princess
6.64×6.64 mm
2 carat Princess
6.94×6.94 mm
2.25 carat Princess
7.22×7.22 mm
2.5 carat Princess
7.48×7.48 mm
2.75 carat Princess
7.72×7.72 mm
3 carat Princess
7.95×7.95 mm
3.25 carat Princess
8.16×8.16 mm
3.5 carat Princess
8.37×8.37 mm
3.75 carat Princess
8.56×8.56 mm
4 carat Princess
8.75×8.75 mm
4.25 carat Princess
8.93×8.93 mm
4.5 carat Princess
9.1×9.1 mm
4.75 carat Princess
9.26×9.26 mm
5 carat Princess
9.42×9.42 mm
5.25 carat Princess
9.58×9.58 mm
5.5 carat Princess
9.73×9.73 mm
5.75 carat Princess
9.87×9.87 mm
6 carat Princess
10.01×10.01 mm
6.25 carat Princess
10.15×10.15 mm
6.5 carat Princess
10.28×10.28 mm
6.75 carat Princess
10.41×10.41 mm
7 carat Princess
10.54×10.54 mm
7.25 carat Princess
10.67×10.67 mm
7.5 carat Princess
10.79×10.79 mm
7.75 carat Princess
10.91×10.91 mm
8 carat Princess
11.02×11.02 mm
8.25 carat Princess
11.13×11.13 mm
8.5 carat Princess
11.25×11.25 mm
8.75 carat Princess
11.36×11.36 mm
9 carat Princess
11.46×11.46 mm
9.25 carat Princess
11.57×11.57 mm
9.5 carat Princess
11.67×11.67 mm
9.75 carat Princess
11.77×11.77 mm
10 carat Princess
11.87×11.87 mm
Length-to-width ratio: 1

Size Comparison With Other Shapes

Carat for carat, Princesses look smaller when viewed from the top compared to most other shapes of the same weight. They are cut quite deeply, which means more weight is hidden below the top surface in the pavilion. Only Asscher cut diamond is smaller than the Princess.

Here is the size comparison of Princess cut with diamonds of all the other shapes. The percentages show average face-up size difference. For example, on average, Princesses are 5% larger than Asschers and 9% smaller than Rounds. Although objectively they have somewhat smaller crown than other cuts, their square shape with relatively large diagonal can give an illusion of greater size.

Buying Guide For Princess Cut Diamonds

Princesses are more difficult to purchase than Rounds since most gemological labs don't grade their cut quality (only AGS does). Nevertheless, the table and depth percentages can give you a rough idea of the cut quality. If you want a well performing stone, keep within ranges defined below. Watch out for feather type corner inclusions as they increase the risk of chipping. Avoid extremely thin girdles and make sure the corners are protected with prongs.

Here is a guide on what to look for and what to avoid:

Look for:
  • Color: I or higher [depends on a setting]
  • Clarity: VS2, SI1 or better [explain]
  • Cut parameters:
    • Depth: 64% - 75%
    • Table: 60% - 75%
    • Polish/Symmetry: Good or better
    • Length-to-width ratio: 1.00 - 1.05
  • Diamonds certified by GIA or AGS [explain]
  • Eye-clean

Watch out for:
  • Feather type corner inclusions
  • Inclusions visible to the naked eye
  • Extremely thin or extremely thick girdle
  • Fair or Poor symmetry
  • Strong blue fluorescence [explain]
  • Diamonds without GIA or AGS certification [explain]

Did You Know?

  • Princesses are cut to maximize sparkle and are an excellent choice, if you want a non-round brilliant diamond. Of course, the masters of brilliance, Rounds, surpass them when it comes to sparkle, but Princesses don't lag far behind. If you're into more rectangular shapes, also check Radiant cut diamonds. Those are very sparkly too.
  • A rough diamond crystal is usually an octahedron which lends itself beautifully to pyramid shaped princess cut (which looks like an inverted pyramid). This gives excellent yield from the rough, making Princesses less expensive than equivalently sized Rounds.

Where To Buy Princess Diamonds?

Online vendors will almost always give you better prices compared to traditional brick & mortar stores, one of the main reasons being overhead expenses. They also have huge selections and with the new technology you can now easily inspect any diamond up-close in 360-degree view. Nowadays, it's easy and safe to buy online. So it's simple: for best value, shop online. Here are the most recommended online retailers:

Compare Princess with another diamond

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carat vs. length* width* depth*
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Color Recommendation For Princess Diamonds

Princess cuts show color slightly more than Round cuts, but not as much as step cuts. The choice of color also depends on a setting:

Solitaire Small side-stones Substantial side-stones
White gold/Platinum I+ H+ same as side-stones+
Yellow gold J+ I+ same as side-stones+
e.g. pave setting e.g. three-stone setting
Note: If side-stones are of any significant size (like in three-stone settings), you should at least match the color of the center stone with the color of the side stones, otherwise the center stone might look out of place (a bit "off-white").

For best value, go with the minimum recommended color for a particular type of setting. Color variations between I graded and higher colored Princess cuts are so slight that it's almost impossible to tell the difference, especially when diamonds are mounted. The difference in price, however, can be quite considerable.

Clarity Recommendation For Princess Diamonds

Princess cuts are not as good at masking inclusions as Round Brilliants, but still much better than step cuts. The recommended clarity for Princesses is VS2 or SI1.

Note: You can always go lower in clarity, but it's going to get increasingly difficult to find an eye-clean Princess below the minimum recommended SI1 grade.

For best value, go with the lowest clarity possible that is still eye-clean. If a diamond is eye-clean, then it doesn't really matter, if it's flawless or SI1. It will look the same, provided all other characteristics are the same.
About Diamond Clarity
Diamond clarity refers to the presence and visual appearance of the flaws inside a diamond (called inclusions) or on its surface (called blemishes). Clarity tells you to what degree these imperfections are present.

The amount of inclusions and blemishes is directly correlated to a diamond's value. Fewer imperfections mean higher price and vice versa.

Gemological laboratories grade diamond clarity as Flawless (FL), Internally Flawless (IF), Very Very Slightly Included (VVS1,VVS2), Very Slightly Included (VS1,VS2), Slightly Included (SI1,SI2), and Included (I1,I2,I3).

GIA and AGS Certified Diamonds

Professional and unbiased assessment of a diamond's characteristics is stated on a diamond grading report, commonly referred to as a certificate. Certificate, while not 100% reliable, is essential in determining a diamond's value.

The standard for diamond grading is pretty much set by GIA - Gemological Institute of America. They are the most reputable and consistent lab in the industry. AGS (American Gemological Society) is not far behind.

If a diamond is not certified by GIA or AGS, you can be pretty much certain that you are looking at lesser quality than indicated. This puts you in a bad position of not knowing the true diamond characteristics, which almost always results in overpaying. That is why a certificate from a well-respected grading lab is so important.

The bottom line: Make sure to always buy a diamond certified by either GIA or AGS. That's the only way of truly getting the quality you expect.

Diamonds with Blue Fluorescence

Blue fluorescence can have a positive, negative, or zero effect on a diamond. Diamonds in the lower color range (H or lower) can benefit from it, as it can make them look whiter, more colorless. On the other hand, strong fluorescence can cause a stone (especially in the higher color range D-G) to appear hazy or milky under certain light conditions. One of the biggest benefits of fluorescent diamonds is that they generally cost less.

GIA grades fluorescence as None, Faint, Medium, Strong, and Very Strong.

Faint fluorescence will have zero effect on color and overall appearance. Fluorescence of this type is not an issue and shouldn't be a purchasing factor.

Medium fluorescence will in most cases have zero to very small influence on color and overall appearance, however, colorless diamonds can sometimes exhibit negative effects and should be examined in different light conditions before purchasing.

Strong/Very Strong fluorescence requires caution. Generally, it's not a good idea to buy a colorless diamond with Strong/Very Strong fluorescence. As for lower color diamonds, even they can sometimes look hazy with strong fluorescence, so never buy a stone with this type of fluorescence without careful visual inspection.

If you're interested in fluorescent diamonds that have been carefully examined and do not display any negative effects of fluorescence, I recommend Brian Gavin's Blue Diamonds. Those are definitely top of the line and a great value.

Diamonds Without GIA or AGS Certificates

The problem with diamond grading labs other than GIA or AGS is that they are looser and more inconsistent in their grading standards. A GIA color H is an IGI color G and an EGL/HRD color F. The same goes for clarity.

While it's true that IGI, EGL, and HRD diamonds are sold at a discount, you can be certain that the same stones would cost less, if they would be certified by GIA or AGS. Why? Because they would get lower grades and thus lower price. Lower than discounted IGI, EGL, and HRD stones with higher grades.

Diamond merchants use IGI, EGL, HRD, and alike to maximize their profits. They know they can sell diamonds with inflated grades for more, even if they're sold at a substantial discounts. Some merchants also use their in-house certification, usually for the sole purpose of increasing their profits. These kinds of certificates are meaningless.
The bottom line: If you don't want to overpay and want to know exactly what kind of quality you're getting, then avoid diamonds without GIA or AGS certification.

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